Paris Travel

Every time my wife's grandparents travel to Paris, they stay at the Hotel Bonaparte. When we prepared to head to Paris for our honeymoon, we followed their lead and book a room for three nights at the Hotel Bonaparte. The combination of price, location (in the heart of the upscale Latin Quarter), and charm (the same family has welcomed guests for four generations) is hard to beat. My wife and I love to walk and we could easily get to the big Paris attractions (The Louvre, Notre Dame, The Eiffel Tower) within a half hour. For those who prefer buses or subway, a bus stop is 50 meters from the hotel door and two metro stops are just down the street. If you travel one block east (to Rue des Canettes), a row of delicious and affordable restaurants cater to most palettes.

The Hotel Bonaparte ranks as a 2 star hotel and the worn interior is clear the moment you enter. However, the staff keeps the rooms very clean and our bathroom was clearly renovated (including a big tub for soaking). The manager remembered my wife's grandparents (even though it has been years since they stayed there) and was extremely helpful when it came to planning a walking tour or picking a restaurant. Everyone we encountered who worked at the Bonaparte spoke from functional to excellent English and were always eager to help. The croissants were a highlight of the wonderful breakfasts enjoyed in the quaint dining room or served to your room by a real French maid (complete with outfit).

If you are looking for a charming, quiet hotel in Paris that is comfortable enough for grandparents yet affordable enough for a young couple, give the Bonaparte a chance to impress you.

With an abundance of 3, 4 and 5-star hotels in the St. Germain neighborhood of Paris, there is room for most any budget, from cheap to luxurious. And anyone staying in this convenient central Paris location should make time to stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens. Built from 1615 to 1627 for Henry IV’s second wife, Marie de Médicis, today it is one of the most popular fair-weather hangouts for Parisians. With 25 hectares to roam (making it the largest park in the city), you can find a spot for a picnic even on a crowded day. This is prime central Paris people-watching territory: gentlemen of all ages playing chess; impeccably groomed ladies sitting in circles, each with her handbags close by, obviously enjoying the visiting, gossiping and time together; some children having a great time running around and laughing; other children out maneuvering their bateaus in the pond; and lovers out strolling arm in arm or lounging on the lawns.

There are statues and fountains all around the park to compliment the grassy fields and well-dressed Parisians. There are playgrounds for children of different ages (adjacent to a puppet theatre and merry-go-round) but these are easy to get away from if you are looking for peace and quiet. You can also inspect the Luxembourg Palace, today home of the French Senate. The gardens are not only a wonderful way to spend a day in Paris, but also free. Grab some food and a bottle of wine from a nearby store and find yourself a patch of grass for the day; you’ll be glad you did. Parisians use city gardens as their backyards, so everyone is quite comfortable and at home. Think of it as sightseeing and going native all in one day.

Check out your favorite Paris Hotels.

Hotel Artus in Paris enjoys a very good reputation, so it seemed like a great place to check out. During a long summer weekend, I enjoyed a very cool and well-appointed room on the ground floor. The location, on the Rue de Buci, is hard to top, being a lively yet safe area in St Germain. The hotel is surrounded by great shops, wonderful restaurants and loads of happening bars and cafes. This is what all central Paris hotels should strive to be.

The reception staff is very friendly and helpful. Much of the welcoming reputation of Hotel Artus comes from its renowned Concierge. After you meet him, you’ll understand why visitors love him. Suffice it to say he gives Paris a friendly and very helpful face. All in all, there is nothing negative to say about the Hotel Artus.

This 3-star hotel was renovated last year so the rooms are both fresh and well decorated. Rates run around €245 for a double but have a wonderful winter rate of €189 (through the end of January 2007). All rooms include a buffet breakfast and access to the sauna (a great way to wind down) and fitness room. Reservations are a must.

Check out more about Paris Hotels. 

If you’ve been to France, you know about their hotel rating system (0-4 stars). More stars means more amenities. Less stars means..less. Just know that more than two stars usually gets you an expensive room with many amenities you may not even use. And don’t go to the hotels with no stars. They can be total dumps.

Two Great Picks:

Hôtel Relais Bosquet*** (Rue Cler Neighborhood) is modern, spacious, air-conditioned, and has nice big cozy beds. This upscale hotel is run by Gerard and a friendly staff. If you’re lucky, you may sometimes even get a free breakfast. (standard Db-€150, spacious Db-€170, ask about occasional promotional rates) extra bed-€20, family suites, free Internet in lobby, parking-€14, 19 rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 47 05 25 45, fax 01 45 55 08 24, www.relaisbosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).

Grand Hôtel Lévêque** (RESERVE THIS ONE WAY IN ADVANCE!) has a great location and a very attentive staff, Christophe and Pascale. They also feature a singing maid who may entertain you with her simple melodies. The rooms are nice and have air-conditioning, TV’s and ceiling fans (S-€57, Db-€87-110 depending on views and beds, Tb-€125 for 2 adults and 1 child only, first breakfast free for readers of this book in 2006, additional breakfasts aren't worth the €8 price, 29 rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 49 15, fax 01 45 50 49 36, www.hotel-leveque.com, info@hotel-leveque.com).

These two are time tested favorites. Whatever you do, make sure you research your hotels before you book!

Claude Monet is said to have seen the village of Giverny while passing by on a train. He immediately fell in love with the place and made it his home from 1883 until his death in 1926. The house and the surrounding gardens were the inspiration for some of his most famous works; a walk through the grounds will transport any visitor familiar with the great Impressionist’s works from canvas to reality. The house and meticulously maintained grounds are today overseen by the Claude Monet Foundation.

The grounds, especially in the spring and summer when everything is in bloom, are truly incredible. The water garden and Japanese bridge both make for some wonderful reflective photography; don’t forget to take your camera. A fun game we played was to try to take photos of the grounds that were composed the same as some of Monet’s prints. Clos Normand, the Monet family house on the property, is also worth a stroll, as the hallways and stairways are filled with prints. The collection also gives visitors insight into Monet’s interest in Japanese prints.

The village of Vernon is the closest access point to Giverny by train. Either walk (very pleasant during nice weather) the 5 kilometers or take a bus to the house and gardens. There are bus tours that run from Paris to Giverny as a half day trip (include Versailles for a full day). Giverny’s proximity to central Paris (about 80 kilometers up the Seine) is both a blessing and a curse, as the grounds can often be overrun with school groups and tourists. Try for the middle of the week to avoid some of the hordes. Consider going on a rainy day with an umbrella if you really want some tranquility.